We begin our adventure on the legendary Three Lakes Tour, departing from Grundlsee, Austria. This route, as famous as it is fascinating, offers a truly unique natural experience, taking us to places inaccessible on foot and steeped in history and mystery.
We chose the perfect combination: walking around the majestic Grundlsee, crossing the mysterious Toplitzsee by traditional boat, and approaching the smallest and most serene of all, Kammersee.
Starting at Grundlsee
We parked near the “3-Seen-Tour” dock and began walking counterclockwise. Soon we enjoyed spectacular views of the historic Villa Castiglioni, built in 1881 as “Villa Grundlstein.” It was later acquired by industrialist Camillo Castiglioni, who gave it its name. In the 1930s, after being seized by creditors, the villa changed hands. During World War II, it housed part of Hitler’s so-called “Führer Library,” before its contents were moved to another location in Grundlsee.
These three lakes, nestled in the Totes Gebirge (Dead Mountains), are rich in history, legends, and even science fiction. And we’re just getting started!
Grundlsee: The Peaceful Giant
Grundlsee is the largest lake in the Totes Gebirge. Its landscapes are postcard-perfect, and every corner deserves a photo. We walked along its right bank, enjoying the calm and alpine beauty, until we reached the second lake: the enigmatic Toplitzsee.
Toplitzsee: Mystery Beneath the Surface
Toplitzsee, formed during the last European glaciation, is surrounded by cliffs and dense forests in the Salzkammergut district. Its peculiarity: below 20 meters, the water contains no oxygen. Fish can only survive in the top 18 meters, while in the salty depths, bacteria and worms adapted to anoxic environments thrive.
We boarded the lake’s traditional boat—two joined together due to the number of visitors. During the ride, the captain pointed out waterfalls feeding the lake and shared stories linking the area to Nazi Germany. Between 1943 and 1944, Toplitzsee served as a naval testing station. Torpedoes were launched from platforms into the mountains, leaving vast cavities in the canyon walls.
The lake is also tied to Operation Bernhard, in which millions of counterfeit British pounds were produced at the Sachsenhausen concentration camp. At the end of the war, printing plates, molds, and bills were thrown into the lake. It’s still debated whether part of the treasure remains submerged.
Toplitzsee has also inspired fiction. In the James Bond film “Goldfinger,” it’s mentioned as the origin of a gold bar that’s part of the recovered Nazi treasure.
Kammersee: The Final Haven
After so much history, we reached the far end of Toplitzsee and took a short trail leading to the third lake: the tranquil Kammersee. Surrounded by untouched nature, this small lake is the perfect finale to the route.
We retraced the trail back to the dock, crossed Toplitzsee again by boat, and completed the circuit by walking along the opposite shore of Grundlsee.
An Unforgettable Place
Nature, history, legends, and beauty intertwine in this Three Lakes Route. A journey that not only delights the senses but also sparks the imagination. Absolutely recommended!
Video
Map
Max elevation: 788 m
Total climbing: 463 m
Total time: 05:06:21
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